Hey Dave, Thanks for all of that, i am getting my mind around it all now but that little voice in the back of my head is asking more questions
Joe,
Do you mean to imply you have an oil cooler already? Surely not standard?
The only time you would need bigger lines/bigger cooler is if the cooler isn't keeping up with the temperature demands which is unlikely I think.
Yeah it was on there when i got it, its about the size of the radiator (HUGE)
the car was done up by my old man and he took the turbo and accessories off so i have no idea what was done to it, let alone the internals
You get upgraded valve springs because when the intake manifold sees positive pressure that pressure is acting on the upperside of the valves and trys to hold them open. You want to pick the valve spring rate based on the cam you want to run (less crucial for a turbo application) and the amount of boost you want to run. Ie, if you would run 100lb springs without boost but you want to run 20psi, then you run 120lb springs.
hmm another upgrade, do you know what other parts are boost specific, when i say boost specific i mean the parts the will break if boosted too much?
A lot of computers have the MAP sensor built in so you just run a vacuum line directly to the computer. I've never seen/used a power FC so I couldn't tell you. Personally (that means ignore me if you like) I think the 240z is better suited to a front-mount air/air intercooler. But thats only my opinion - obviously depends greatly what you want to do with the car.
well i have a 280 and i tell you what i reckon you could fit a person in the pretty easily
Almost drop in. I had to drill out the intake manifold by 0.5mm or so to get them to slide in. And yes I had to make a custom fuel rail using some fuel rail stock - aluminium extrude honed stuff. Wasn't particularly hard, but then it hasn't worked yet either
hahah i thought that might be the case with new injectors, what if i were to go for something like 550cc, is it bad to go for over kill, also alot of people talk about high and low pressure which is the best?
Less compression means more boost yes. But it also means sluggish off-boost performance (which in turn means it'll take longer to come on to boost). Its a balancing act. The stock L28ET is 7.4:1 which is extremely low for a factory engine (and off boost, it feels it!). Personally, with decent fuel/intercooler/turbocharger/computer I wouldn't be going down to 7.4. I plan to build my L28 with around 7.8:1.
so if you are rasing your compression would'nt that mean that you can't run asmuch boost inturn making less HP?
Trick i got told by a track racer in NZ is to get some copper pipe, beat the end flat, drill hole in it, and bolt it to the block. Then put some garden hose over the end and run the hose into the engine bay so you can listen to EXACTLY what the engine is doing. He said when tuning it was clear as day listening down the hose, but you couldn't hear anything outside. If you run forged pistons its unlikely you will destroy a piston straight away, you'd have to be unlucky to destroy a cast one straight away too.
Aslong as you keep an ear out while your engine is being tuned and make sure it doesn't, you should be ok.
Dave
I assume you meant out of the engine bay, so when i get it tuned it cant be predicted if it will detonate or not?
also i was talking to buckle last night and he said you were the man to talk to about l28 turbos (which i now see) but i was originally going to go for an t3/t04 hybrid but it looks like a GT is going to be the better option, what would you suggest also which flange would work best as i think i might have to get a manifold built due to i cant find one anywhere except america and it will cost 300 alone
Thanks
Joe
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