I re-wired mine to accpet the new metal casing semi sealed lights, and bigger wire and relays.
pretty easy!
I also re-wired it so that the lights turn off with the ignition switch
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| headlights for a 1600 http://www.ozdat.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4259 |
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| Author: | simo [ Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | headlights for a 1600 |
What are the best high beam headlights for a 1600 without relays being fitted...I cannot use ones with a metal casing because the 1600 switches negative... |
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| Author: | Warps [ Sat Feb 05, 2005 11:34 am ] |
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Honestly, Simo. Don't waste your time with the standard 30+ year old wiring. You'll have far better lights by redoing the wiring with standard sealed beam headlights than you would with mega globes and inserts and the standard wiring. The wiring used in Dattos was marginal when new, and after 30 years can only be described as pathetic. Do yourself a favour and upgrade the wiring before attempting any other upgrades. Otherwise you won't get even half the potential out of new light upgrades. I liken headlight upgrades on standard 30 year old wiring to running racing slicks with your standard 30 year old suspension. It might be better than before, but nowhere near the potential if things were done properly. |
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| Author: | MR1600 [ Sat Feb 05, 2005 8:55 pm ] |
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when u say upgrade the wiring are saying the whole thing..... because ive just stripped mine down to shell and the wiring is everywhere... even if i get it all back together its still sh*t 30 year old wiring is it... would do u recomend a) getting electrician to completely overhaul wirjing (new everything-big dollars) b) getting electrician to fix up wiring (what ever looks sh*t he can fix up) c) leave it and keep dealing with electical problems - not an option lol thanx graham |
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| Author: | datsunboy [ Sat Feb 05, 2005 11:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I re-wired mine to accpet the new metal casing semi sealed lights, and bigger wire and relays. pretty easy! I also re-wired it so that the lights turn off with the ignition switch
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| Author: | banzai510(hainz) [ Sun Feb 06, 2005 5:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
MR 1600 You can use the stock wireing, But just use stock wire it to trigger a relay (Hella,Bosche) they the power wire off that will be the bigger wires. Hella makes some H1 and H4 hights. Personaly I have never had Datsun wires go bad but with the light hopefully you upgraded the alternator also The power wires will go to the + side of batt and you coul have the relay nearfront lights so it look nice and clean with out huge amounts of wire. I think Cibie had some light kits also. I know the use a case ground on their high beams I think the stock high beams are 50watts and a Hella high is 55watt(just 5 watt difference). I dont think it would burn up the wireing(fuse would blow right). Maybe try that first. But if you want both go with the relays |
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| Author: | DattoPimp [ Sun Feb 06, 2005 4:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When i upgraded the lights on my 200B I did the inner first and ran a relay because they were 135watt each and put in new wiring. When i did the outer lights, i originaly ran 60/55s but that was pitiful. I then put 100/90's in, and well, they weren't any brighter. Found a 2.5V drop across the wiring. Rewired the entire light circuit, including the wires from the switch to the engine bay. Used something like 4 relays, and its abit messy, due to the fact the highbeam relay needs a relay to switch it...go figure  but its covered by a metal cover and theres split loom throughtout the vehicle.There is now 12gauge wire everywhere for the lights...and damn its bright. I had to put the inner lights on a switch due to 470 something watts of light alone not being very friendly to a 50amp alternator. Thought about Datsunboy's idea of wiring them to the ignition switch...But had had enough with the relay problems and decided i was happy with working lights  So in conclusion. Rewire the entire thing. If your handy with electrics, do it yourself. You'll save a bundle and you'll be able to say, hey look, i did that! Just do it abit at a time and you shouldn't muff anything up. If you don't like electrics, get a sparky to do it. This'll say problems further down with light switchs triggering indicators and wiper switchs doing the headlights 
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| Author: | Nozzer [ Sun Feb 06, 2005 6:24 pm ] |
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If you can follow a wiring diagram, the actual running of the wires isn't that hard. I did a partial rewire of a mate's VB Conformadore a week or so ago. My suggestion will be do a little at a time. Start with the things like the lights and take it slow. Also, try and follow the wire colors given on the diagram. If it says use pink wire, use it. Save farking around later if something goes phut, if you've used all the same color wires. |
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| Author: | Warps [ Mon Feb 07, 2005 10:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wot he (they) said The biggest problem with wiring seems to be the highly loaded circuits, such as lights. Over the years, the conacts start to break down, moisture gets into wires, etc, all reducing the effeciency of the circuit. As suggested above, you can use the existing wiring to switch the relays (that way all of your original switchgear can be retained). Rewiring the whole car is a big task. I'd only do it if the electics are starting to become unreliable. Then again, while the car is fully stripped, it's as good a time as any. Problem is, it's easier to wire up components when they're sitting in their final position, so you can work out wiring lengths, cable routes etc. |
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| Author: | Owey [ Mon Feb 07, 2005 1:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I rewired mine using the info in the link below. No more dim yellow beams! http://www.nowroc.com/Webpages/Techtips/H4s/H4.htm |
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| Author: | Nozzer [ Mon Feb 07, 2005 2:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Nice Link... |
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| Author: | banzai510(hainz) [ Tue Feb 08, 2005 2:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would us the stock wireing to trigger a new set of relays. It keeps it ez and if you want to go back to stock quickly. when you turn your lights ON find the wires that power the front lights. Now just route that to a relay to turn on and the bigger power wires to your new higher wattage lights. Then use another relay for the hight beams(use the 2 wire to trigger the relay and goes to the light. pretty ez Mount the relays near the front to keep wire lenght minimun and the route the power wire back to batt nice and neat. Hide it under existing wireing but keep separate in case of failure. |
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| Author: | Warps [ Tue Feb 08, 2005 9:47 am ] | |
| Post subject: | ||
...route the power wire back to batt nice and neat.... Not strictly correct. Just remember that over time, whatever current you're drawing through your lights will need to come from the alternator.If you run the power wire for the lights from the battery, then don't forget to upgrade the wire that runs from the +ve terminal of the battery to the alrternator. You can't make this wire too big. As an alternative, run the power for the relays straight from the alternator. Again, remember that if you turn all your lights on with the engine off (don't know why you'd want to do this), then all the current again runs through the wire between the battery and the alternator. |
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| Author: | banzai510(hainz) [ Tue Feb 08, 2005 4:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Warps, Am I missing something ?why the alternator? Is it th wire thickness?Better to get all the amps from the source? The excess goes to recharge the batt. I used a spare wire that came off my batt cable(accesory splice i guess you could call it that) That goes to the high power wire to the relay that is fused.For my Hella 500 55watt lights(looks like ralley lights but no overly powerfull. To trigger them I just routed the 2 trigger wires to the highbeam by putting on a blade connectors and sliding them in back the the high beam connector. Slips in nice and neat. As for picking up the power you could just use th positive lug on the starter(where the batt cable hooks up to hide it better) Well not using Airplane lights NOW. |
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| Author: | Warps [ Tue Feb 08, 2005 4:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Banzai, Normally, the alternator cycles depending on the battery charge level, and the circuit load on the battery. Running big lights (I'm talking about upgrading all lights to 100W, plus maybe an extra pair of driving lights) will draw a big current from the battery. The alternator will need to feed at least the same current back into the battery to keep it charged. Really, the battery is just a buffer the even out the loads placed on the alternator. Over time, the alternator needs to put as much charge into the battery as is taken out by the various circuits. The standard wire between the battery and alternator is designed to handle the day to day charging duties of the standard circuits, and the 35A alternator. Put in big lights and a bigger alternator (I had a 110A one on my rally car) and this wire will soon reach its limit. This overload can be partially overcome by replacing the wire with a heavy cable. My preference is that any circuits that are only used with the engine running should be wired directly to the source - the alternator. |
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| Author: | 1600dave [ Sat Dec 31, 2005 8:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
g'day, just wondering if its possible to upgrade the 1600 headlights to non sealed halogen units, but instead of having the high and low beams seperate, use H4 globes, which are high/low? so basically all 4 lights would be on all the time whether it be high/low beam? cheers, dave |
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