It would seem that the L20 cam is the same as a L16sss cam.
anybody done the cam swap ?
is it worth while or it it better to just get a more performance cam made up ?

ta.

If you've got one sitting there, theres no harm in throwing it in.
There just a very very mild grind.
If you've gotta go get one, have it reground while your at it.

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Thanks, sounds like if i am going to go to the trouble to pull the thing out etc I might as well get something decent made up & be done with it.

I personally wouldnt do it.
But swap the corresponding rockers with the cam.
Most HP gains will be in the mind.
You risk poppoing a tensioner out/dropping a chain ect(doing the front cover).
Little more time you could just put a L20 in .

If I have the cam out I would get a bigger cam and up grade it to one with at least 450-460in lift(can still use stock springs but need bigger lash pads and possible retainers(I would put he bigger retainers myself).
I have a Scneider 460 lift 260/270 cam ,Iam thinking it should have come stock on these motors

Reground cams suck donkeys balls. (from a dollar viewpoint)
Sure you have saved some money compared to a new billet cam , but then you need the correct thickness lash-pads. $$ CHA, CHING $$
Anyone that tells you that a regrind doesnt need thicker lash-pads is a dirty liar.

The best cam (in my opinion) for a street driven L-motor is the Wade 25/65. It requires no new lashpads in billet form. It has excellent low down torque and good top end pull. With the correct competition springs it should pull to 7500rpm with no dramas. (without said springs valve bounce is a problem at 6000rpm+)

Datto 510,
I wouldnt worry about changing the cam myself. Just save your money and do a better set up later

Datsss73
Yes I agrre if I get another cam I would get a new NOT a regrind but I havent had my regrind go bad in 4 yrs. Yes you need a bigger lash pads.What I notice is you physically have to measure the cam so they are not undersize(NOT as Advertised) But even the new cams that I seen still start out with a .150-,160 lash pads. I get the retainers just for more of a saftey margin cause the nissan book says you can go with 160-170 lash pad in stock retainers. Or you say a cam will fit the stock lash pad(That would be nice).

My little truck motor with the 460 lift cam What I did is use a Nissan Comp inner spring and a stock outer spring(visa versa is OK.) This is a dailey driver and I thought it would be fine as longgevity was overall consideration also
Also the cam is a Aysemetric ,Faster opening rate,slower closing rate so it will handle higher RPM w/o punding the valves and needing the higher spring rate.

The cost of doing a new cam is Mostly using the New Rocker Arms. Here is about 20$ apc x 8= 160$US
I hear of regrinding Rockers but unless I know its truly planed flat and square Im not going to trust it( too many Russian kids at the machine shop I saw!!!)

The car is used for tarmac hillclimbs.
although it is registered it only ever drives to the track & back.
I am just going through sorting out the suspension at the moment & after I have that sorted (coil overs etc will go in soon) I will look at making some more torque/horsepower.
a cam seems like an easy thing to start with
if I am lucky i will come accross a second hand competition head......

Thanks Jeff

Why replace the rockers Arms ???????????
I have never ever heard of them breaking , even after major valve spring failure. All they need is a good linish , and thats it.

My Nissan how to rebuild and How to race your Lseries says you should use NEW Rockers with a new cam. They wear as a set.
I have never seen one break but if they are worn with the famous dimple in the middle it could be hard on a new can till it breaks in.
I myself will change them since I have 3 sets of new rocker arms.
My piece of mine I wanted new everthing. Do it once right and you will never have that motor aprt again for a long time.

If you build a good motor you wont have to keep changing cams anyways.

Im sure some people get away with it (if low miles on rockers smooth)but a buddy told me he used a New cam and old rockers once on a Mazda and it wore down the Cam lobe that fast.

Dude, thats why you linish them.
No need to buy new ones.
And I also have that book. Excellent reading.

Jeff, are you still running those Hitachi SU's? I have a reground cam here that I used to run many years ago when I had the twin Hitachi carbs on my old L16. It's about as wild as you can go with those carbs, but I can't remember the specs. It won't make it a firebreather (sorry its not one of those magic 25/65 cams that pull to 7500rpm!), but it will make a worthwhile improvement for say $60?

You will require different needles for the carbs too, but I can give you the numbers - they're still in my old carbs on the shelf here. Needles cost $25 for the pair last time I bought a set, but that was a long time ago...

The only time you'll ever need a 'Billet' cam is when you cannot grind enough timing/lift/duration into a standard cam.
My reground cam + new lash pads + new heaver v/springs in my Zed, cost around $180 all up. And it?s been fine for the last 4 years, with NO valve train wear (& I regularly turn the engine to 7000rpm).
Just make sure its ground by a reputable company.
Billet cams are around/over the $300 mark.
Bang for buck, I know which one I'd go with...

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YUP
Harry, can the cam just be bolted in or do you need to change lash pads etc. is the installation something that I could do or do you need special tools / skills etc ?
I thought it was really hard to get needles for those carbs ?
price sounds Ok...what sort of HP / KW increase would it achieve ? is it better to just buy a whole head ? (remember i have the "loser" head).


PS I am now in possession of the sumi brakes & struts out of your old 240k

cheers Jeff

I seem to recall it used standard lash pads. no matter, the lash pads I used with it are in the cam box too. I show you how to fit it if you can get the car to my place - I work for beer...
yeah, file that old wives tale right up there with "SUs are impossible to keep in tune"... They use the same needles as genuine SU carbs. Akses stock thousands of the things, and any carb specialist will be able to supply them.
I don't know what sort of increase to promise you. It won't be huge, but its big enough to warrant re-jetting (so to speak).
I don't remember what head you have, and I also don't remember what some of the heads I have lying around under the house are, but one of them may be better. But we're talking even smaller gains than the cam on an otherwise standard L16.

I do know where a good cylinder head is though - Craig's about to sell his 1200 sedan with my old L18 engine in it.
- genuine SSS head - 219 casting. mild porting, valve and chamber work
- L16 block, L18 crank
- 10.2 CR flat top L18 pistons
- 76 degree works cam. 47/77 82/42 304degrees duration .514" lift.
- custom headers
- lightened flywheel
- balanced
- sports 2000 clutch

it was good for flat 50's at the hill in my 1200 on those crap Hankook tyres. with some suspension sorting on Craigs car, and its S13 Silvia brakes, plus your A032R tyres, i reckon it would be good for a low 49. You'd probably sell you 1600 for more than what he's asking too...

Why is he selling? Upgrading, or just getting out of it?
Goddamn it Jeff, if you don't buy the bloody thing, I will!!!

For sale: one 240K with P76 V8, partly stripped, needs a bucket load of work to get it going again. Comes with spare EFI rover donk, and Hilux 4 spot calipers, plus some bits for a turbo conversion