Dave,
you were saying that it would have been cheaper to fit a N/A SR20.
would you mind sharing a rough budget with the rest of us ?
cheers
Jeff
Well, that was a bit of a guess.
I'll need all the usual efi into old car stuff no matter whether its an L18 or SR20 - new fuel lines, efi pumps, upgraded brakes, etc, etc, so no difference there.
For an SR20 N/A, I've seen them advertised for under $2 grand, including everything you will need - engine, gearbox, wiring, ecu and so on.
For the L18, the big expense is setting it up for programmable injection and ignition.
Number one big expense - an ecu. I just paid $1060 for a new Haltech E6X, so thats half the SR20 budget gone.
The cost of the blower ($250)
The cost of ignition (another few hundred for coils and ignitors, plus whatever else I use - Hall sensor, CA18 CAS ??)
Blower bypass valve (genuine Mini for $150)
Ijectors and fuel rail (I got them cheap but need to do a lot of work to make it fit, say $50)
Custom inlet manifold (maybe another $100 in materials, plus lots of my time)
Probably custom extractors to fit with the custom inlet and the blower mounted on the same side of the block (Again, maybe $50 or so for materials, plus even more of my time)
Then I will have to factor in a full rebuild for the L18, including making it a bit more robust to handle the phenominal extra power it will now generate
The SR20 should be in good condition, just throw it in and off you go without needing to open the motor. (Say another $1,000 at least)
Then I still need to find a good gearbox for the L18 (comes with the $2000 SR20 package).
It will all add up, or I could have just paid my $2000 for the SR20
Ohh, one other factor that I haven't included is the cost of a fitting kit. Reason being that I will still be using a 200B x-member for the handling benefits. So, no extra cost here (for me). You could save this cost with the L18 conversion by just using the original front end.