Yeah I've seen that too. **** making a crown fast though. He should have put the engine in something a bit cooler. Cool setup though. Wouldn't be too hard to do only money.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

well it actually shows in his vids a REALLY easy way to create the sc bypass which is pretty neat using only a throttlebody and a actuator , i dont think it would be that expensive but making mistakes would

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ill just leave this here

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just found the vid for it

sounds like its over 600hp!!!!!! OMG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmZ4ux8A618

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764atw according to the latest zoom.

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My drinking club has a Datsun problem............

NZ Datsun Club inc
www.nzdatsun.com

Dont know if its been said in the last 12 pages, but some of the guys wh ovisit NS.com will definately know of him

meminto

search memintoca18 on youtube for some documentary videos and search nissansilvia meminto username for his project, something rediculous like the two or three mentioned on the last page.

Hey guys Just thought Id join up as I was doing some ca searching sorry for bringing up an old post!!

Ive been building my ca18 for a long time now, 6 odd years plus, And just finished the mrs ca18, which made 250rwkw @ 18 psi So thats awesome!

mine is a tomei stroked ca20det, Jun drag cams 312 deg x 10.25 lift, Solid lifter conversion, to4z turbo, Nismo ITB Adaptor plate, Nismo ITB's and a HKS Surge tank from the old hks super silhouette! And alot of other things but i wont go into them.

Just wondering if anyone know any tricks as to getting a ca more reliable, EG Head drain mods, baffeled sumps and whatnot ?

Hopfully have mine assembled this year....... Then im going to be scared of driving it cos of the rareness of the motor hahaha

#quick note# meminto is going to go for 1000hp TO START WITH lol i was at his place not to long ago and its very close


SLDWYS i would actually love to see this thing man, sounds like a no expense spared

stroked, itbs AND a TO4z lol that should make alot more power than the 250kw one with a good tune i believe u should be pushing into the 300-400kw area

ca's biggest downfall is its engine oil management, im a drifter so to combat this i have a standard sump which will be made to hold an extra 2-4ltrs of oil and i will baffle that extra, i run a 18 row oil cooler and i have also tapped the rear of the head near the welsh plugs so that i have an additional oil drain to remove the oil from the head faster as it WILL flood at higher rpms

other than that flowing the head will make some good gains but id say with 312 cams and stroked it may be negged out by adding more boost


anyway heres a pic of my progress to share the ca love

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Hi folks how do u kno what year the CA18DE (from the S13 )were manufactured is there markings on the block ? BTW great thread u all are life savers

Hello All,
While my CA18DET isn't going into a Datsun (TA22 celica Sports Sedan,) it is worth posting on this guide as no-one else has so far shown them: (with clutch and turbo this is what $10G's of CA gets you ) Expect to see the car on the starting grid for race 1, 2012 pushing +300RWkW and 11" wide Work Equip 15's. Building an engine that'll do 300RWkW on the dyno or drifting is one thing, it's another thing entirely to have it spend extended time there at full load.



Shown clearly here is the best value clutch formally available, the ORC, sprung twinplate and billet flywheel clutch assembly; $1300 delivered. But no longer available . Keen eyed among you may have also noted the external oil drains. Simply remove the rear welsh plugs and tap in a suitable thread and Bob's you're uncle. A very worthwhile upgrade if you intend for your motor to live above 5000RPM. Take note of the coil mounting option. Each of these coils will turn over an Ox (I know one shocked me really badly.) A simple bracket secured to the right cam cover and short leads. Also note the extra heat breather located in front of where no.1 spark plug goes between the 2 cam towers. Extra breathing is never a bad thing.

You'll also note the large 80mm throttle body

This thing fits like a glove and extensive work has gone into smoothing out the inside of the plenum. Also note the extend sump and oil cooler fittings. I've also had 1 row turned off the front pulley as it wont be used. Get a Growly CAS bracket. Finally note how I've had the right had side cam breather turned forward to make pipe routing easier.

No picture of this though but: DON'T BUY WISECO PISTONS if you want to keep your oil squirters. They simply hit and there is no option other than to remove them. Not really an issue for me on AVGAS but best to let you guys know. Oh, Pauter rods are the bomb such quality.

Lastly:
Injectors: I'm using Denso/SARD 800cc (part No: #SR63566.) These are a twin pintle injectors with a bespoke oval plug, (you get all the plugs you need when you buy new injectors.)

As for RX-7 injectors. there are 2 types. The oval plug ones from a Series-5, still available from Denso/SARD, part number #SR63506. These require that you get the correct oval plugs that came with the RX7-S5 or buy them new from Denso/SARD. The other injectors that are a direct drop in are the Square plugged 500cc (some say 550cc) units from the RX-7 Series 4. these are harder to come by second hand, and command a higher price due to their direct drop in nature. That said if you buy second hand RX7 injectors just get them to include the plugs;) I previously had the S5 injectors and payed $150 including the plugs, great value.

Of benifit might be this chart from Denso/SARD

It might say fuel rail modification needed, but trust me these babies drop straight in no questions asked

If you have any extra questions I'm happy to answer, this engine has taught me a great deal and once tuning begins it might just be the first CA18DET to get a Borg Warner EFR8374 turbocharger if the current GT2876R can't cut the mustard. As for the insides, that's for another day.

Cheers
Jordan

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Past rides: 86 Hilux, 3x ke55 rollas's (2coupes,) 2x ST185 GT4's, RA28, TA22, KE10, P610 datto, RT40 corona x3, RT132, MX13.

Current Rolling stock: 2000 model ST215 Caldina, CAA22 celica (race,) RT40 corona (cruiser)

Is this for drags or track work? A GT2876 won't get you to 300rwkw IMO. Also I notice after all the money you have spent you still have the stock FPR installed. Ditch it and buy an adjustable FPR. Sard or Tomei make some nice units. It will make your life and your tuners life alot easier.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

It's for use as a circuit racing engine (Class: Sports Sedans S2.) As far as the FPR is concerned it's a simple pressure diaphragm. If it proves problematic I'll change it out but it will be under no greater stress in this engine than in a stocker, as I don't intend on running a higher than factory fuel pressure. Remember the FPR is probably the most reliable auxiliary component on an engine and is one of a very few number of components that does not see an increase in stress from a race engine. It's simply a pressure diaphragm that opens and restricts fuel return in order to maintain a constant fuel rail pressure.

As for the turbo, I got it real cheap 2 years ago when I had different goals and it's been great at and above 210RWkW, no stress at all. I'm skeptical too of +300RWkW, but on AVGAS we'll see, as said if it's not up to it a new B.W. EFR8374 will be purchased. I need to keep the internal gate and highmount for packaging reasons. This is why I haven't bought a Tomei ARMS M8270 (fits the bill but can't rotate compressor housing for highmount setup.) Another option would be a VG30 or RB25 turbo high-flowed with a GTX3076R front wheel and a 20PSi actuator, but the Borg Warner is a more compelling solution for obvious reasons.

Cheers
Jordan

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Past rides: 86 Hilux, 3x ke55 rollas's (2coupes,) 2x ST185 GT4's, RA28, TA22, KE10, P610 datto, RT40 corona x3, RT132, MX13.

Current Rolling stock: 2000 model ST215 Caldina, CAA22 celica (race,) RT40 corona (cruiser)

Furry muff. \I've dealt with my fair share of S13's and CA's before. The stock FPR's do die and if it was my motor race or not I'd bin it for sure. The last issue I had was with the CA currently sitting in my 1600. The FPR died and was causing the engine to lean 17:1 under load. Swapped it out and hey presto all good. Goo luck with your built. Cheers

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

is that cambelt from the states via ebay / other online store or can you order them here through Gates cheaper?

when u say one row turned off the pulley, is that originally a twin pulley balancer from a fwd exa?
Im looking at just using the main pulley and remove even the rest of the unwanted rubber/steel.
Problem is Ill have to braze the main pulley back on.

CA18DET's suffer from water cavitation at high RPM. A reduction harmonic balancer should be used when on the track, dragway or rallying.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup