Ive tried all the online wreckers there but none available at the moment.
Ill try the 240sx forums.
d.

If only we can get the old molds from Yahoo.auctions Japan

Old? They're still making them! They're used in 4x4's in the States.

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Beef,
I thought the jap ka24de heads where finished with the 240sx and the ones in the states are south over the border Tequila molds?
I found a twin cam head from a navara for 220 and the inlet manifold for 165. However Im not sure on whether the DE can become a reality now with the crank sprocket, chain and tensioner being such a challenge to get right. Would you know if I can get these items made by anyone you recommend? I thought of slicing a ka24de crank sprocket and have it precision welded onto a spliced L series one. Also the timing cover wont be a big deal to get right, however the tensioner, chain and anything Im not aware of needing?

Anyway local Repco quoted me 600au for c sleeves into an l18 block with a step on the bore and using a tackle to stop distortion. However because they need to bore to 94mm to fit the sleeves.
I rang another mob and the said the same thing but where worried about the water and oil galleries. They said they might have to make some type of brace for the top and concrete the bottom
Anyway has anyone on these forums ever sleeved an L this way for 89mm pistons?
Also having trouble finding a siamesed l18w block. Im yet to pull apart a 720 l18w but 3 x 180b (with l18w blocks) and 2 x 180b sss so far has been worthless.

d,

Re: Later ones are made elsewhere? NFI. I don't think I'm going to make cylinder heads any time soon tho...

From a Navara? I had stumbled across something the other week that some late Aussie Navara's had DE's. Must be true, then. They'd be RWD heads too - interesting. I don't think there's any performance gain in that, but it could make fitment easier.

$220. <sigh> I went around a dozen wreckers in Adelaide, and mine was still over double that. Bastards!

Chain should be easy. The L/Z/KA chain is just a standard industrial chain. 3/8" pitch, can't remember the roller size. Buy a good one, and a number of places could shorten it to the right number of links.

Guides and tensioner. I'm thinking about that right now - I'll let you know. I have an idea!

Sprocket. Most places I know (in SA) that could do that kind of work have now either shut down, or have specialised on something else. I'll have a think about that for you, if/when I work out answers to your other Qs.

You do NOT weld sprockets.

There probably are other little things - but they're just that. Little things.

Re: sleeving. I'd personally only feel comfortable with some experienced, and familiar with the L series. Just me. Anyway I'm not sure which state you're in, but I'd imagine...

SA: Datsport
Vic: Datrats
NSW: Stewart Wilkins

...could sort you out.

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Recommended trading: datto-510

Thanks Beef,
Im just going to have to wait "patiently" till youve pioneered the beast.
Im in Melbourne unfortunately while you are in a warmer and more beautiful state with endless beaches, beautiful towns, best wines, with great datto master workshop (Datsport), ex Nazis community and rustfree original old retro country cars.
As for the Navara....
http://autoweb.drive.com.au/cms/A_51482 ... ticle.html
http://www.nissan.com.au/navarasingle/s ... ations.asp
110kw with 9.2 to 1 compression, restricted exhaust and the rest (eg low hp torque cams), imagine what can be unleashed in this lil beast!!!!.

On another note....are the KA24DE combustions chambers similar to the FJ20/24DE ones?

I wouldn't have said all that about SA - but you forgot much cheaper house prices! And much more expensive KA24DE prices it would seem...

Combustion chambers look similar to FJ20 & SR20 combustion chambers. Pent roof with a squish/quench band either side of the head.

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Recommended trading: datto-510

why not just make up a kit that makes it all work on an L20b and let people buy their own head ?


to digress a little, that 3.0 ltr diesel makes awesome torque

Since this old thread's been dragged up, I may as well contribute.

I have had welded a number of sprockets over the years. These were the drive sprockets for 50-plus year old vintage bikes, which were obviously unobtainable new. Just got an appropriate sized sprocket from the local industraial chain supplier, turned the teeth plus a bit more off the original sprocket, turned the centre out of the new sprocket, lined them up and welded.

Then chuck it back in the lathe to turn the weld down (as much for appearance than anything else), and Bob's your uncle (or rather Peter's my uncle who used to race bikes and is now a TAFE engineering teacher with a lathe )

These lasted for years of admittedly rather limited use, and admittedly the the bikes only had 15 - 20 hp, but I would imagine they led a fairly tough life as they were exposed to the elements and the jerk of on - off power application and braking.

I have no idea of whether the metallurgy of these old sprockets is different to Datsun cam drive sprockets, however

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

One more time...

You do NOT weld sprockets.

Most car sprockets are made out of cast iron, cheaper ones are sintered.

1) Not fantastic material for welding.

2) Regardless of material, welding isn't too great for keeping the sprocket round & true (due to the heat distorting it).

Have seen a number of welded gears and sprockets. All broken afterwards. I'm guessing it's that stonking 20HP that saved you. Perhaps they were made from steel? But ferchrissakes don't do it on a car engine.

Sorry to come across so strong, but I work in powertrain and I see lots of broken stuff. I'd rather it wasn't yours!



Backs to the heads...

You probably could make up a kit without the head - depends on how the organising person wants to do it. Which is/was d.

Not sure where d's gone. I noticed he had a KA-E head up for sale here.

On the flip side, I've learnt there's probably a bit more welding required for the DE head than I first thought... would be nice to offer a true "bolt-on" head.

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Recommended trading: datto-510

Here at the local pick-ur-parts the ka24de heads are very common and sell for between $50-$75 U.S.

If this project is based in part on looks then you really need to design and cast a retro valve cover similar to let's say an S20.



Now that would be sexy

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'71 510 estate

Beef still here and waiting at the bench.
To see what comes of your l20b

But hey I never ever wanted to make a kit!!!!
I just wanted to see who would be interested if there was one available!

However I quickly got people telling me to not bother because we datsun people are tightarsxx fair enough who isnt
Well I think that this conversion still kicks the butt of a 2 valve head even in final price.
I want the 16 valver now and looks like I will have to go l20b but I still hope there is a way for the L18DE to be possible the 20mm shorter block will help make a big difference in my B10.

One more note the 12 valver should make more usable torque given same compression and setup but alas just found out the only reason its used in SCCA in the states is because the 16v version didnt seemed to be allowed.

Mat,

Cover looks nice, but for what I'm doing, looks are a little low on the priority list.


d,

Still waiting eh? You are a patient man! I have made some small progress, but I keep getting distracted by other things.

1) L20B should be OK for you (if you're interested). I measured over the valve heads, with the valves lifted to be flush with the head/gasket face. I can't remember the exact size now (I have it written down at home), but I do remember it being small enough for them to fit down an 86mm bore with small notches.

2) Finally stumbled across the source of that "small leak issue" with L blocks. I think. It seems the water passages in the KA head travel much closer to the exhaust manifold than the L head. The KA head overhangs the L block a little here - so there isn't much distance between the water passages and the edge of the L block. However, the KA water passages are huge - looks like something else that could do with some welding.

3) Timing chain design has advanced a little - but as I say, I've mostly been working on other things.

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Beef,
I will wait for as long as you need
Also if I go l20b I wont keep the 85mm bores I will go at if possible 88-90mm. Also a 92mm crank (destroked to 90mm) wouldnt be far from my tastebuds for an L23BDE. The stroke should make those big mutha 36.5mm inlet valves wake up.

Also has anyone ever lightened or looked if its possible to lighten an L series block like many have done for the fiat TC block by machining excess material from the bottom of the block base and fitting a custom made higher reaching sump?.

Ive read this in an european magazine where apparantely this is a safe and common procedure for fiat engines in race trim where every little bit of excess pork counts.
It might not work for the L but I dont know enough about the L so Im asking a stupid question for the L gurus

In looking at the U.S web sites, all the late 240 sx have KA24DE motors, surely these would have to be better than an SR20 in normally asp mode.

has anyone ever put one of these in a 1600, looks like it would be a fairly easy fit. Add some throttle bodies, cam shafts and computer and I would think one these could get going.

d,

I thought you were trying to limbo under 2.0L? 86x86 should fit the bill...

Getting greedy now?

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