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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:23 am 
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Fantastic work Nik, love how in depth your posts are.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:07 am 
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Cheers guys.
Baz, I'm definitely looking forward to the testing too. See how she goes once all the shock/spring tweaks are finished.

Turbo510,
It's already engineered with similar modifications to the rear, so I'm already familiar with all the approval requirements including the FEA/Force calc's, and crack testing the welds and the associated documentation. I do most of the work and submit. Fairly straight forward. No hiccups so far!

Anth,
Cheers mate, the proof will be in the driving!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 9:50 pm 
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Hey Nik,

I have been offiline for a few weeks with travel, great to jump back onto Ozdat and see this update. Fantastic work there!

2016 looks like the year you will finally be back out on the track again!

Keep up the great work and let me know the second its ready for a spin.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 1:44 pm 
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Hi Trent,
Good to hear from you. Definitely keen on getting back out on the track for sure.
Just have to finalise a few other things (not to do with the rear end) and I'll be keen as mustard.
Definitely keen to go for a cruise (bedding in the diff) fairly soon!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 2:17 pm 
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So time to start putting this stuff together.
CV joint decisions still have to be made. It's just easier to leave the stub axles in the diff until a decision is made.
Datsport Moustache bar fits like a charm and is really a nicely made piece of kit. Bolts and bushes are supplied, so it's fairly easy to bolt it all up.
Small festo fitting in the top of the R200 finned cover to allow plumbing up to the inside of the boot with a breather.
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Arms went on without any issues. I previously made sure the bushes and the associated bearing tubes were correctly sized. The whole arm assembly slid in quite nicely.
The decision to assemble the whole thing and balance it on the jack was a good one. The whole assembly bolted in reasonably easily with just a little bit of rocking to get the bushes in the custom cross member and the moustache bar engaged.
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IMG_4197.JPG [ 157.5 KiB | Viewed 5251 times ]
Then came a bit of fun fitting the springs.
I had to drop the cross member again, but not all the way to fit the springs in place.
They went in with a little bit of trial and error as they are slightly different than the previous springs I was running. These have a slightly higher rate than previous as I am going to be upgrading the front springs to match.
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IMG_4199.JPG [ 155.68 KiB | Viewed 5251 times ]
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IMG_4207.JPG [ 123.04 KiB | Viewed 5251 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:54 pm 
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Great progress Nik! When will you be driving it?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 9:02 am 
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Waiting on a few bits and pieces to come in, then it will be bleed brakes, and do a few quiet laps around a few round abouts to bed this diff in. Then cruise time!
I will probably fit the new front springs too so I can start getting used to them.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 4:56 pm 
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Hey mate , lookin good.
Just wondering what Xmember mount bushes you are using?
And also any tips for removing/replacing them?
Cheers

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 5:08 pm 
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For the X-member I am using SuperPro bushes.
Originally I used superpro's on all my bushes on the car after replacing the rubber ones.
They have been fantastic. The ones I removed from previous rear end are pretty much brand new.
Removing the old original ones is fairly straight forward. Soak it with a bit of WD40, leave for a few days then hit with rubber mallet and presto they pop straight out.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 10:12 pm 
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Did you notice that the super pro bushes have 4 bottom half's in the kits?

They do not have a full face on the frame.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 10:35 pm 
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SR20Datsun wrote:
Waiting on a few bits and pieces to come in, then it will be bleed brakes, and do a few quiet laps around a few round abouts to bed this diff in. Then cruise time!
I will probably fit the new front springs too so I can start getting used to them.

Man when i ran my kazz 2 way in i had to do i think 25 minutes of figure 8's but i know i done 35 just to make sure it was a pain in the arse


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:27 am 
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Baz wrote:
Did you notice that the super pro bushes have 4 bottom half's in the kits?

They do not have a full face on the frame.
Hi Baz,

The super pro bushes I used on the cross member were old ones from the previous cross member I had. I ended up removing material from the top bushes and the steel bush insert to raise the cross member up. The bushes were modified on the belt sander and the steel bush inserts were turned down on the lathe. I guess this increases the amount of material in contact with the body of the car.
sutho510 wrote:
Man when i ran my kazz 2 way in i had to do i think 25 minutes of figure 8's but i know i done 35 just to make sure it was a pain in the arse
I will probably do something similar, although the Quaife style LSD's don't have the same design as the clutch style and hence don't require the bedding in procedure the Kaaz diffs do, I would like to make sure everything is sorted before hitting the track.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:46 am 
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We use whiteline bushes. As they are solid on the top bush, We also thinned out the bushes when we did the rear end in Cammos car.

That why we use the whiteline bushes in the diff mount.
As you noticed you can raise the diff by swapping the bushes around.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 9:52 pm 
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I know a lot of people go on about diff angles. Is there really any benefit to raising the diff angle in the 510's without actually raising the rear cross member or modifying it to begin with?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 8:47 am 
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Have a read here:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=25262

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