I have a FJ20e and box in my garage. I was thinking of eventually putting it in my gazelle since its a fairly straight forward exercise so im told, since they originally come from a S12.

My question is, is it worth my while supercharging it?

I was thinking along the lines of the cheap 1GGZE superchargers, nothing special.

Is it hard to make a mounting bracket / get it aligned properly to suit this application / motor?

I realise its easier to just turbo it, but I dont want to go that path, i'd rather some low down talk, without sacrificing the top end revving.

Any input from people in the know is appreciated.

Cheers

Martin

i'm in the early stages of a "different" FJ20E build too.

the only downside i see is not having the oil cooled pistons like the ET, but that's no real disadvantage, because plenty of cars are built without them (like Ls!)

the pulleys shouldn't be hard to line up with some string line.

i think the biggest problem is where to mount it in the S12!

do you plan to use A2A/W2A intercooling or water injection? WI would be neater and easier and datman55's kit looks the goods.

you should just be able to use ET injectors and be away with it - if you keep boost reasonably low (like the factory 1GGZE 4.5psi) you may even be able to get away with the stock FJ20E computer - like on the 200B wagon in the feature cars.

just keep the impellers below 11,000 rpm and it'll run great.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

Thanks for the advice, should be enough room in the S12, aren't those chargers only a little bigger than an air compressor?

Google showed these images;



Or is it this big biatch?



Only looking for standard boost, would be running a microtech MT-8 on it, probably just go for the Rx7 injectors over standard.

Anyone know who can make a mounting bracket for me? I'll have a hack myself, might be able to modify a fj20 air con bracket....

The NA FJ in all its glory;



Managed to swap the weber manifold for a S12 inlet manifold complete minus throttle body.

Just need to see if someone wants to swap the dizzy as its been converted to run carbies, motor came out of a 1600 race car.

I'll probably use a A2A cooler, just for simplicity & cost, they are cheap as chips now.

Sounds like a great project...keeps us up to date if you progress with it.

Mark.

_________________
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When the Flag drops........... the Bullshit stops
Go hard or go home!

make ssure you get the 1G or 4AG crank pulley too, and have it either welded to your V belt pulley or convert your alternator / water pump to serpentine pulleys.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

Yes, thanks for that (and the shirt)!

_________________
2004 Holden Rodeo Dual Cab Service Barge, 1982 DR30 Skyline RS Rally Car, 1974 Datsun 180B Rally Car, 2007 Subaru Liberty Spec.B wagon for the missus...

http://www.bmsc.com.au

Hey matt! cheers mate!

Will keep the progress updated, just spent a day putting another bloody ca20 piece of poo in the gazelle since the timing belt stripped and stuffed the head, laying in the rain doing up gbox crossmember bolts for a ca20 grrrrrrrrr

Taking my 180bsss to the engineers on thursday, so once that project is out of the way and I have a second car running, then I can think about getting this motor on the engine hoist and start dumby fitting SC's.

cheers

Martin

Take time in the design of the bracket, needs to be robust .
The whole design must be based around the crank pulley
position, first job.

I may be able to supply an outer 5pk pulley ring which is shrunk on to machined area of std crank pully. or the size.
Should give you 9 lbs boost, which is sufficient for the specs.

On L series we do this on the rear of the crank pulley. this keeps all other belts in std position and reduces stress on the end of the crank.

once the pulley is fitted you can then position the blower exactly.
Belt tension must be adjusted via idler pully.

generic/hybrid/monza/ IC.
water injection, even a cheapy version.
keep it clean & lean 13.5 af with WI.

Oh, missed this,

Only looking for standard boost, would be running a microtech MT-8 on it, probably just go for the Rx7 injectors over standard

If you go IC & WI you will get best grunt, drivability
economy, so why not try the std injectors first & save some cash.

_________________
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"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Hmmm, It just so happens I'm thinking of doing the same thing as I have a SC14 that I'll be removing from my Skyline. We'll see though.

As I've done this before, I recommend running your TB infront of the blower, otherwise your BOV ( which you WILL need if TB is behind SC) will constantly vent when not under full load and de-accelerating as the SC keeps pumping air all the time. You'll also lose braking ability due not getting enough vacuume to your booster.

As Baz said. Hard mount the SC and use an adjustable idler pulley for belt tension.

Don't block the vent holes on the SC either.

I'm running a 165mm drive pulley on a modded RB30 and I get 2-3 psi of boost. Would be more on a smaller 2.0L FJ 4cyl. I run no IC or WI and get no pinging at all. The low boost would help this to...

Give it a go. The extra torque you get will seriously impress you. Boost is there as soon as you want it...

Give me a yell if you need any info...

Scott..