I have just got my P's and have been learning to drive in my 200B 4 door 4 speed the L20's go ok(for a single OHC non turbo carby feed motor).I have done general maintance to the car including a new radiator,but am bored of the power.I have a 32/36 weber of a corrola wich i was going to get re-jetted and fitted then i was going to get some extractors a 2inch exhuast biger muffler in the middle and my drift cannon out the back.My friend has told my that i wont gane that much power with these mods unless i work the head as well.If i could get some feed back about bang for buck with wich mods my motor will react well to

Mate...

Go the weber
Leave the standard exhaust manifold on
Get a 2inch system from factory manifold back
That "should" net you 4-8 rwhp

Don't touch the head until sumthin goes wrong. ie blown head gasket etc etc.
I only say "don't touch the head" because removing the head opens up a "whole" can of worms and other possible expenses.
If you can deal with that and pocket the costs involved get the Head ported by a KNOWN Datsun mechanic/workshop in your area.
while you are at it fit a Wade 25/65 cam.
They are the Bee's Knee's of streetable Datsun cams, and shouldn't be to aggressive for your Weber carb.

Have fun and drive safe.....


Dave M

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1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

Thanks for your reply I definitely will get the carby fitted and rejetted. I was just wondering why i should keep the stock mainifold, is that due to backpressure with standerd internals and porting.Thanks for your advice

sssssh! don't use that word around here! (backpressure...).

it has nothing to do with "backpressure". they're cheap and they flow better than most off the shelf extractors.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

Yep he's spot on there.
The "smooth faced" L20B manifold is better than "most" aftermarket extractors.

With my EFI L18 I'm building, if the HPC coated 4-2-1 extractors rob the engine of low down torque they will get binned.
I'll get a smooth faced L20B manifold extrusion honed then HPC coated for good measure.

Sometimes you just can't better the factory equipment.

_________________
1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

180B headers (the early headers in other words) are da bomb.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

hey pro what about the bluebird exhaust manifold. That seems like it well made with smooth equal length tubes

hey hayden!

i've never played with a bluebird one so i can't comment - but i'd take your advice on it anyday!

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

I have noticed from going to local wreckers that the bluebird manifold is 4 into 2 from factory were the 200B is 4 into 1. would i benifit from putting a bluebird manifold on my car when i do the exhaust

Deffinately get your weber jetted and fitted professionally if you can. I spent hours and hours trying to get my weber 32.36 to run right on my L20B. Read post "shes running.. just not too well" on this engine page.

(Thanks everyone who helped me on ozdat!)

I eventually got it to run ok from hit and miss with jets and other things. Make sure the weber is in good condition, both the base face of the weber is flat, the manifold is flat and buy a new redline adaption kit ($40 from sprint auto).

Dont use the gaskets in the kit, they are sh!t. I used them and one got sucked through the engine. Make your own out of gasket material.

My weber was also off a 1600cc LT corolla. the jetting is very different.

I have some interesting imformation about headers. A friend of mine had a stanza with a fresh L16 engine, completely stock apart from elec dizzy. He then replaced his whole system with 4-2-1 extractors, and a 2 inch system and hot dog at the back. Gave him a noticably large performance improvement.

Not sure why that is, might just be on L16s that extractors work best.

Also if you dont have one already and have the money get and electronic distributor. Extremely good upgrade. Anywhere from $50 - $250 depending on where you go. They came in S2 Bluebirds.

Daniel.

_________________
89' R31 Skyline Ti, 5 speed - Daily
89' R31 Skyline Executive - Slider/track whore
8' Stanza SSS - Rally Project

thanks datto_1600 for your reply, i have read "she's running..just not to well" you went through a bit to get yours runnig good.

My car was 500$ with rego but blow a little bit of black smoke,overheated on hot days,and runs on every now and then when you turn it off(only had to stall it once), and the speedo did not work.

I did fuel/oil filters, new ignition system (plug,leads,etc,etc) set timming and tune carby, new front brake pads,radiator hoses, new radiator(from tonkins lonsdale $220) and a new speedo, in total this was $430 including the radator.
And doesent blow smoke any more and never misses a beat (expect for the over run thing)

I was going to take my car to Carby Tune at lonsdale they Quoted me $300 to fully rebuild, jet and fit the 32/36 to the L20.(hope it will stop the run on thing(SORRY THAT I DO NOT KNOW WHAT THAT IS CALLED IN MECHANICS TERMS)
the carby has linkages and an old redline airfilter, it also has the plate on the bottom.
the carby was fitted to a 2l celica RA23 that ran, so i'm pretty sure that it is all there.
but the carby was suited to a 4K in a KE20

So Has any body delt with carby tune and is that a good price(I thought it was ok)

Hello, i would say that $300 for jetting and fitting is pretty good. If your doing that and have money go buy a cam something like a wade 25/65 as jdmdatsun510 said. Crowcams are also good.

The run on is called pinking. You switch the ignition off and the engine still runs on for a while? What fuel rating are you running? Does the engine knock at all? (pre-detonate)?

Usually pinking occurs on hot days. When does it occur for your engine?

It could be your carby (most likely fuel cut solenoid)
plugs (too hot rating)
Carby not tuned?

It could be a number of things, i would guess its the fuel cut solenoid in your carby. Check the connections. One way to tell is to get someone to turn the ignition to "ON" - NOT START, while you have the air filter box off the carb and listen to the carby when the ignition is switched to on. If you hear a clicking sound coming from the carby then your fuel cut soly is working.

If you get the weber done, then make sure it comes with some sort of guaruntee and the workshop is 'good' before you get it done. You want it done properly, no point in wasting 300 odd $ on something that will stop working in 6 months.

Can you post a picture of the weber?

Daniel.

_________________
89' R31 Skyline Ti, 5 speed - Daily
89' R31 Skyline Executive - Slider/track whore
8' Stanza SSS - Rally Project

Hello, i would say that $300 for jetting and fitting is pretty good. If your doing that and have money go buy a cam something like a wade 25/65 as jdmdatsun510 said. Crowcams are also good.

The run on is called pinking. You switch the ignition off and the engine still runs on for a while? What fuel rating are you running? Does the engine knock at all? (pre-detonate)?

Usually pinking occurs on hot days. When does it occur for your engine?

It could be your carby (most likely fuel cut solenoid)
plugs (too hot rating)
Carby not tuned?

It could be a number of things, i would guess its the fuel cut solenoid in your carby. Check the connections. One way to tell is to get someone to turn the ignition to "ON" - NOT START, while you have the air filter box off the carb and listen to the carby when the ignition is switched to on. If you hear a clicking sound coming from the carby then your fuel cut soly is working.

If you get the weber done, then make sure it comes with some sort of guaruntee and the workshop is 'good' before you get it done. You want it done properly, no point in wasting 300 odd $ on something that will stop working in 6 months.

Can you post a picture of the weber?

Daniel.

_________________
89' R31 Skyline Ti, 5 speed - Daily
89' R31 Skyline Executive - Slider/track whore
8' Stanza SSS - Rally Project

Dat 810

Run On is common with the L20 open chamber head.
The stock L20 had a cutoff selinoid installed on the stock carb ,so when Key turned to OFF a needle would plugg the idle jet

here is a weber DGV (photo) with this option
not all DGVs can have this. ck the main idle jet holder
If the main idle jet has the bigger brass screw/holder then the second barrel it can be added

Thanks for every one's reply's

I am unable to put pictures on my computer but my weber had stamp on the side DGAV31A (so i guess it's a DGAV) and does not look like it will take a solinoid, so this is a problem, If so i see if the carby place will convert it would this be a difficult job

As for the pinking i run it on regular unleaded and turn my ignition to on and couldnt hear anything from the carby

As for (pre-detonate) it does knock (and shakes the car a little)but usally pinks for a sec and then sounds like its pushed a heap of air through and well spools down over another sec (like it's got a massive turbo that has to wind down?) and will do it when its hot or cold wheather(about a ratio of every 5-7 turnoffs it will do it once )

By the way i am in the process of connecting a tacho would anybody know what the max rpm is(in the sss 200B's it's 6500 wich i through to be a bit high but that probly not a normal l20 like mine)