hi guys.
i am wondering if anyone here has made a hole in the sump for the Oil return from the turbo?
what materials / welding technique were used. i have searched the net but they dont go ino so much detail ..
i am doin a suck through carby setup.

anyone here done it before?
thanks for any help guys

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**Lots of 180B Parts, bits and pieces, SMS 0422 222 200 for more details, i may have it**

Clean to bare metal inside & out where the hole is to be.
Drill hole in sump about 10mm smaller in dia to what pipe u are fitting.
This needs to be above the normal oil level.
Make up a tappered punch/spike to the OD of the pipe.
drive this thro the hole, out side to in, this will give a 5mm flange/lip.
enough to support the fitting & sufficient to weld too.
depending on the material of the fitting I would bronze or silver solder it.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

I drilled a 3/4" hole in the sump and had a piece of flat round migged on (by my panel beater).

You want to drill the hole directly below the piece of flat plate in the sump.

Dave

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USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

theHelix when u say the "flat plate in the sump" im assuming simply being as high and as close to the sump gasket as possible?

also if i used a standard oil drain fitting such as this...

http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/T ... degree.htm

could i just drill a hole in the sump to the same diameter (19mm), drive the fitting from inside to out and have the flat flange part welded to the inside, and weld around the hole on the outside?

also what material are these fittings usually, and what material is the sump?
taking this into consideration what weld would be more suited? Silver solder?

cheers guys

_________________
**Lots of 180B Parts, bits and pieces, SMS 0422 222 200 for more details, i may have it**

No I mean the flat bit of plate in the sump that you don't want oil above. Pull it off and you'll see what I mean, can't miss it.

What baz said is a very good idea. I essentially had a nut welded onto the sump and then screwed in a speedflow fitting.

If you're welding you want the same material as the sump which is mild steel.

Don't forget to get also put in:

- oil temperature gauge sender bung
- oil catch can return bung

Sucks to forget one then have to pull it out again

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

sorry guys im gettin a bit confused now.

i didnt quite get what you meant by the...
"- oil temperature gauge sender bung
- oil catch can return bung "

is all that neccesary?

also Baz im finding it a bit hard picturing in my head your steps.
do you have some tutorial or pics that could help??

sorry guys but never really done anything crafty like this b4.

cheers

_________________
**Lots of 180B Parts, bits and pieces, SMS 0422 222 200 for more details, i may have it**

If you get all the bungs welded onto the sump you can just put a plug in them until you want to use them, which I assume you will at some point.

Pull sump off. Drill holes, buy nuts, go to panel beater, say weld here.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

oh yeah i guess you have a point.

i really was only thinking just having a straight pipe for the turbo oil drain, and if i ever wanted to take the whole kit off just plug up the hole. (im assuming there isnt any pressure comming out of that pipe).

hey in regards to the sump, the engine crossmember looms underneath it and so does the steering rods. do any of these need removal or does the sump just slide out from underneath the steering rods?

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**Lots of 180B Parts, bits and pieces, SMS 0422 222 200 for more details, i may have it**

we just drilled and tapped the timing cover at the front.

fitted an 8N fitting and screwed a brass barb fitting in.

was planning on doing this to Team_dat's coupe too.

had no stagnation issues at all with this setup.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

or dipstick can be used... if you wanna keep the engine in the car.

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Err.. its called an oil drain because its supposed to drain downwards. If you forcing the oil to go upwards to return to the engine then the oil INSIDE the turbo is pressurising as well and you're increasing the likelihood of it blowing smoke 1000 times over.

You want the drain as big as possible (mine is 3/4" or -12) and as unrestrictive as possible so the oil just flows out.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

the turbo is reasonably high mounted so it is still draining to the sump.

but you're right - 8N is prob too small. 12N would be better - cheers.

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.