Its an auto, but a turbo-diesel auto. Had to be diesel as the main reason we got it is for towing the caravan and the 1600, and although I was hoping for a manual, it was realistically never going to happen as the wife can't (or won't ) drive a manual.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Since the 1600 (and me) is off to Bathurst at Easter, I thought I'd better do a little work on it.

So, for the first time in probably 20 years the motor is apart. It looks pretty good, no major problems and shows signs of having been built properly last time (pistons and rods show obvious signs of having been balanced, etc).

Only thing I found wrong was that one of the "mousetrap" valve helper springs looked to be starting to come adrift, and the front two cylinders look to be running a bit rich (or richer than the rear two anyway).

Plans are to get it measured up in the next few days and fully rebuild i back to how it was, only major change will be flattop pistons to bump the compression up.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

You doing the motor work yourself dave?

Yep.

I'll get it professionally measured up and machined, but all assembly work will be done in the shed.

_________________
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Hey dave
have you thought of using l16 rods in an l18 and milling down 87mm standard pistons to get the deck height right

gets a good rod to stroke ratio of around 1.705 and has around 10.5:1 compression

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Circuit Race 1600 in the build

Yep, I was searching thru old posts on here and came across the idea of using Mitsubishi 4G64 flattops and L16 rods. I have a set of L24 rods that take 9mm rod bolts if I go this way. I'll have to chase up what pistons I could use, as L18 ones don't go to 87mm (I don't think ??)

I'll get the block measured up in the next day or two and see whether I really need to get it bored to the next oversize (87mm) or whether I'll get away with a hone and new 86.5mm pistons.

I have a set of new Z22 pistons somewhere, which from memory have a 35-ish mm pin height and are around 87mm, so they might be an option with L16 rods

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

In your shed, you probably have 35 different rod/piston combos that you could use

Have you thought about using an L20B, or do you want to stay under 2L

Going to stick with the SU's or change them as well?

_________________
http://www.healingchambers.com.au

I'm staying L18 - the best of the 4 cylinder L-series IMHO.

If anything, I'd drop back to an L16. I've just never really liked the "vibe" of the L20B. Don't know how to explain it, I just prefer the L18 (even if it may not produce quite the same power).

Same with SU's. They work OK for me so they stay for the time being.

You're right, I do have plenty of gear to pick from, and if I wasn't entered for Bathurst at Easter, I might do things differently, but lack of time (and money after paying the entry fee ) means this is more a refresh than a complete new build. I just want an engine similar to what I've had the last few years, and I want it in the next 2 or 3 weeks so I have plenty of time for tuning / testing / running in. The only real change will be the pistons, to bump up static compression as well as fix the lack of dynamic compression due to worn / stuck rings.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Love your garage.

Go the NA L series!

For so many of us this is how it is. Love our cars and save to compete as oftern as possible.

I built a garage for my parents many years ago and my Dato still lives there with the same amount of space you have.

The old man and I spend many hours out there working away and listerning to the footy keeping the old girl up to speed.

Good luck at Bathurst!

My shed is already too small - there's 3 cars in my shed, and the two fairladies have been relegated to my brother's shed.

"Saving to compete" has taken on a new meaning this year. Bathurst is a hell of a lot expensive more than the usual events I do. Still, I'm hoping Easter at Bathurst will be more entertaining than a whole year's worth of "normal" events. Hope so, with entry fees and the engine rebuild cost its probably all I can afford to do this year

I've also gone off the idea of using 4G64 Mitsubishi pistons. Best price so far is $450 a set (with rings) .

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Work has been progressing well. Not quite as quick as I would have liked, but I'm getting there.

As of tonight, the block is pretty much done, crank is done, head is almost done. The head just needs final touches on exhaust ports and refit new valve guides then its off tomorrow for a few tiny bits of welding to repair corrosion damage and a trip to the machinist for a tiny skim on top, bottom and manifold faces and a valve job.

Block had the oil galleries opened up, hot tanked, honed to 3 thou clearance on the new Datsport 86.5mm flattop hypereutectic pistons, decked ever so slightly to clean up the head gasket face, then I tapped the oil galleries as suggested in the "How to Hotrod and Race etc" book. After a thorough clean (including the oil galleries being scrubbed out with spray gun cleaning bruches) the block got new welsh plugs and a paint job, and its all good

Still to do is order a new cam, dummy it up and check valve to piston clearance and wipe pattern. Flycut pistons if neccessary, order new lash pads if neccessary, then just assemble it all .

Other new bits are electonic dizzy, Z18 oil pump (which I believe is the same as the L28 turbo high volume pump ) and 1 3/4" British SU's (eBay specials, still to arrive in the mail), plus a full SU rebuild kit and new "BAZ" needles for them.

Bock as it came back from machinist




Drill oil galleries out to 9/16", ready to be tapped




Tapping for a BSP plug




Tapped without breaking anything (lost a bit of skin though - the block's edges are sharp )




Plug not screwed all the way in - still needs to be trimmed in the lathe as the oil passage to main bearing #1 is just inside. Need to shorten the plug so I don't block off oil to this bearing.




Cleaning implements for getting all muck out of the oil galleries. Were my spray gun cleaning brushes, not much good for that anymore though




Ports as they were. Inlets had already been ported, fitted with new seats and 44mm valves in the past. Exhausts were standard, complete with plenty of carbon and worn out guides.




Head in the oven to make removing guides easier




Drift for removing guides (was a 200B sway bar link). A lathe makes things so much easier





The (almost) completed port job. Just need to put the final touches to the exhausts, and polish them a little.




Almost done




Lynx manifold made for fitting 44mm SU's to L4 engine




Electronic dizzy's (thanks Marty )




Nice and pretty

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Looking tasty Dave!

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Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

Yeah top work Dave. Not long now mate.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Better not be too long - it has to be together, back in the car and tuned by the end of the month

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

I've got the "datsun how to" book back at dad's house, but i've forgotten why you tap the block for the oil plug. Why is that?

Looking neat, and pulling out all the hidden upgrades/mods from the book, gonna paint the inside of the block too around the crank for better oil return to the sump (i remember that hint!)

_________________
http://www.healingchambers.com.au