You might remeber before we lost all our treads, i had one featuring my blue 180B (the one in my sig). Once we stripped it out we found it was too rusty, time to start on the green car.

In its' former glory doing a skid. 20 years on the coast then 7 years out in the rain wasnt good for it.


This is the one we're using now. Note the old shed.


Taking the engine out (we'll use this engine as we know it's history). Note the new shed i built


Graveyard for the blue car


Green car ready to go. Though the body has more dings in it, there's only cosmetic rust which will come out at the workshop.


Anyone need a anchor?


Good old Waz. Doing things yourself is free, but can take forever (like in our case). After 7 years of doing next to nothing, we're forking out the $$$ and letting someone else do (some of) the work.


You might've noticed the mesh wheels in the first pic. They're era Enkei mags (12 kg's with tyres on ). My Dad pinched them and is putting them on his red show car. After a once over with a 'girls best friend', they came up like this.



Back to the green car. It's going to be fully stripped and seam welded. Once that's done a roll cage is being welded in. The suspension will be coilover front and conventional in the rear (until i can make some rear coilovers up).
The motor (to be legal for our racing class) must remain a L18. Our engine builder reckons he can flow the head for 200hp. We're using twin 45mm Webers (fully rebuilt) and a gigantic cam, so it'd be nice to see 100kw at the wheels once finished. I cant wait to hear the thing rev.
Gearbox is a 260Z item rebuilt and has steel syncros. The diff is a R160 mechanical LSD i managed to find, with 4.44 gears (out of a Subaru Liberty). This means a top speed of around 200km/h at 7000rpm.

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sounds good man, keep us all updated with many pics!

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120Y Coupe- longest build ever!

i'd kill for a set of those enkies

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1980 stanza - L20B (dead)
1984 longbed 1200 ute, ca18det powa!

Um, please dont...

Definently will keep you updated with pics as soon as more work gets done.

Got a hunch there will be a certain datto at Phillip Island at easter...

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you only have a week

This one ? I had great fun with it last time I went to Wakefield Park, even if I couldn't get past as it had a bit more speed down the straights (that's me in the green 1600)

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Hmmm someone's done their research... yeah that's my Dads car. He's only a casual driver. Sez the car "understeers" but i say he isnt trying hard enough Last time i drove it the electrics sh*t itself so i only a got warm up lap before it died That pic wouldve been only a few weeks ago right?

What kind of lap times can u do in your 1600? Cuz when i drive Dads car the best ive done was a 1:21, he's more like 1:24.

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Nope, that was last August at the Sydney Datsun Club day. Not so much doing my research, just very interested in your dad's car as I'm doing up a 180B SSS as well. Every time I see his, I have a good look over it for inspiration

I've only been down to Wakefield Park twice - first time I went round in 1:34, then after a few suspension mods I was down to 1:25 next time. I'm hoping for a further improvement when I get down there again as I've since put a decent set of tyres on it.

When running with your dad, I was gaining ever so slightly thru the corners but he pulled away as soon as we got to the straights (only a car length or two down the main straight, but enough to keep me behind him). Went on like that for pretty much all that session. It was good fun to have someone in a similar car to run against - my 1600 still runs an L18 with SU's.
Have you put the 4.44 gears in the R160 yet ? I'll be running a Subaru R160 in my SSS and will be looking to replace the 3.7 gears. I've seen various sites that claim you need to enlarge bolt holes in the crownwheel if using Datsun cw and pinion in the Subaru R160, just curious if you need to modify the Liberty crownwheel to bolt it in.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

No, the new gear hasnt been installed yet. I've read those websites too where you hear about having to drill bigger holes. Any engineering shop will be able to do it no worries.

Back to the track day. What is your diff ratio? Because his is 4.1:1. I know when im driving i only use 2nd and 3rd gears round Wakefield. He doesnt like to rev it and changes into 4th up the straight. The car really has no power (50rwkW) and im assuming your's close to that also. This is the only thing i can think of as to why he'd pull away up the straight. Ok it's either that or a 180B is more streamline than a boxy 1600

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Mine still runs the original 1600 auto diff (3.9) and puts out an almighty 51 kW. I use 2nd and 3rd round Wakefield as well. Occasionally I'll try 4th down the straight, but its hardly worth the extra gear change up and down again.

Perhaps it is the streamlined shape of the SSS that makes the difference

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

I dont think any drilling is neccesary.?

I have a subaru LSD R160 in my car and i put the CW and Pinion from a datsun diff 3.9:1 into the LSD.

I didnt do it myself but the workshop that did it would of told me if they had to modify anything..

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**Lots of 180B Parts, bits and pieces, SMS 0422 222 200 for more details, i may have it**

Yeah, so much conflicting info out there

I guess the moment of truth will be when I get around to actually doing it.

As Fr3ak says, its not too big an issue as the diff shop will modify it accordingly, I'm just curious as to whether a Datsun cw & p would be better to look for, or a Subaru one.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

What do those wheels way without tyres ?

killer1200, i have no idea of the weight when the rims are naked. All i can tell you is 12kgs with tyres on. This is an 8 kg saving over stock steel rims/tyres which are 20kg.

Dave, both diffs are made by Fuji Heavy Industries. Im sure you already knew that. As to what ratio is better will depend on where you're going to drive the car. A 3.9:1 will be better for daily driving and highway usage, but for the track you want it and low as u can get. Id stick a 5:1 in there if i could. 4.4:1 is as close as i can get tho


Here's the latest work. Stripped out and new sills put in:

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Project is still coming along.

At the moment we're getting the body cleaned up before the roll cage goes in. It's going to be a pretty comprehensive cage (my mates have called my Dad "safety Norm" for years). Think CAMS/FIA approved 6 point bolt in.
We've even sourced rear coilovers, so the cage is being build to support the rear suspension.

I'd put up photos of the body work, but we all know what bog looks like... While im on the topic, we cut the arse off the current car and are grafting on another rear from a cleaner car. I'll see if i can get some pics of that as i think its pretty funny. OK by funny i mean putting out fires because the oxy isnt the safest way to open up a car

Im also working on a 3D model of the cage (to see how much it'll weigh) once i get that done i'll put up some pics.

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