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 Post subject: por-15
PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:04 pm
Posts: 171
Location: North Nowra/Winmalee
hey just want some feed back for por-15. i had the inside and underneath of my 1600 sandblasted. i have coated it with por-15. can i just coat it with the rubberised por-15 spray for the body deadner? or should i tie-coat it then blackcote and then the rubber spray or is that over kill ? i want to make sure its done right the first time i dont want rust to appear later and have to redo it. i got my paint scraper and with the corner i can scratch the por-15 down to the metal. it that normal also? i just wanted to see how strong it was lol it was the same for the roof area i treated ( with marine clean and metal ready) as the sand blasted floor. :D

Cheers,

Richard


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 Post subject: Re: por-15
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 12:37 am 
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I also found that this type of product is not so bullet proof. the guys that rust repaired my datsun a few years ago said the only thing that will get this stuff of (they were refering to kbs but the same stuff really) is a grinder. anyway a little while latter i was prepping the body for paint and i just sanded straight throught the stuff. then i got curious and started scratching at it and it came away easy as. also paint stripper takes it off easier than paint.

sorry itys not realy advice but dont think its overkill to do all of what you said. plenty of seam sealer (proper stuff from a reputable auto paint shop) and some good rubberised sealer like you said. I used some stuff called Raptor ute bed sealer on the inside of my car and just dabbed it on with a brush. great stuff but you may need to sand the por-15 stuff a little for adheasion.


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 Post subject: Re: por-15
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:44 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Gents,

You need to make sure when you are putting etch prime/POR 15, or any other primer, that you scuff the surface up before painting. The recommendation is to use a 3M clean and strip disk which will take any rust/oxidation and then you paint over the top of the cleaned surface.

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 Post subject: Re: por-15
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:54 am 
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its very true because its a mechanical grip not an etching grip but that's the thing though as he says that everything was sand blasted which apparently is the best surface for this stuff, but still it scrapes off.

but it can work as I have used it and will use it again very soon but its not always the best solution in my opinion. and obviously don't drive over any paint scrapers :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: por-15
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:17 pm
Posts: 916
Location: Western Australia
I have found that POR15 really needs an abraded surface to stick to. A sandblasted surface is perfect. On smooth metal it will just peel right off. It even stresses this on the website

In relation to the original question
I would abrade the POR15 with some 400 grit sandpaper (your poor hands and going to be blistered) and then put a very thin layer of tie coat on. Then once that is dry put your top coat eg rubber coating

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 Post subject: Re: por-15
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:04 pm
Posts: 171
Location: North Nowra/Winmalee
thanks for the reply guys. yer the floors and underneath were sand blasted. the roof wasnt i used to marine clean and metal ready. i think i might go the tie coat then the rubberised spray from por-15. with the tie coat it says you can paint onto up to 6 months old cured por-15. ill look into whether the tie coat needs a top coat or whether the rubber spray will be good enough. that raptor stuff is expensive but i guess you get what you pay for and i dont want to drive over any paint scrappers lol

cheers,

richard


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 Post subject: Re: por-15
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:04 pm
Posts: 171
Location: North Nowra/Winmalee
Also forgot to ask does the seam sealer stick to the por-15 well?

Cheers,

Richard


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 Post subject: Re: por-15
PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 4:45 pm
Posts: 1035
Location: Zombie-free unfluoridated town in QLD
lampy wrote:
I have found that POR15 really needs an abraded surface to stick to. A sandblasted surface is perfect. On smooth metal it will just peel right off. It even stresses this on the website

In relation to the original question
I would abrade the POR15 with some 400 grit sandpaper (your poor hands and going to be blistered) and then put a very thin layer of tie coat on. Then once that is dry put your top coat eg rubber coating
x2

needs sand or media blasting of some kind you best hire a portable blaster, buy a good breathing mask and an empty shed you can easily sweep up afterwards. Do it right first time and even to save money depending on color use Por15's Whitecote for white or with a tint from PPG for the colour you desire or Blackcote (not a fan of black myself but most are) and apply with a cheap spray gun as you will have to throw it away afterwards cause this paint is like hard chrome! or even use high quality rollers, no runs, orange peel or need for quality application its an amazing product. Try and scratch white or blackcote at a supplier that has the samples of Por15 products on railway sleepers and see what I mean, even took out the stanley knife and still had trouble cutting a scratch into the stuff as my sharp keys had no impact whatsoever.


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 Post subject: Re: por-15
PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:01 pm
Posts: 13
I could swear my life on POR-15


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