im not sure but i think there is some kind of an issue, otherwise everyone would just use normal verada disks as there only about 80 the pair, undrilled are more like 300

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-1969 1600 SR20

im told these are 180b struts? they have the right hub but i just wanna make sure there not 240k etc ones

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-1969 1600 SR20

more

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-1969 1600 SR20

check out the strut top and see if it's on a slight offset to the shock rod, if so they're later model ones since 180Bs had the camber angle corrected via new strut tops and also check the bolt hole spacing on the caliper mount.

*edit* also if they were 240K they would have different calipers opposed to those, so I would ssy they are 180B but not sure if they're late model ones going by those pics. You really need to check what I mentioned above.

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"You stay classy OzDat"

cheers alex, i havent seen them in person as there interstate but they did mention they has some type or offset strut top, so i think there the ones

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-1969 1600 SR20

Has anyone had experiece with this? Im thinking strength or lack of it maybe the only concern.

i know some guys doing it but just to trial fit them on to their struts then ordering the un-drilled ones.

I'm sure most brake places wouldn't do it and an engineer wouldn't like it much opposed to blacks being drilled to suit. but it's not so hard to obtain blanks from DBA just tell them or quote "u" for un-drilled and they should be able to provide them; but if not try RDA.

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"You stay classy OzDat"

I have drilled non blank 425's for my racecar. One hole overlaps.
Never had any problems and it gets driven a damn sight harder than any street car.
Engineers might not look at it favorably though.
Maybe you could weld up one hole and redrill

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Circuit Race 1600 in the build

There is nothing wrong with redrilling 5 stud rotors. The ones I got done didnt even completely overlap the hole.

Brake shops will and do redrill them. They cost $25 per rotor I've found around sydney.

i reckon should still talk to an engineer first.

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"You stay classy OzDat"

it would be good if this were to be legal as drilled ones are only about 85 weres undrilled are around 300

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-1969 1600 SR20

what struts tops would be better used in a 1600 the offset 180b ones or standard 1600 ones? cheers

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-1969 1600 SR20

The later model ones since they will give more neg camber. On a 180B you can't tell much but you sure would on a 1600. This is due to the strut tower spacing difference between the two cars.

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"You stay classy OzDat"

Ok after doing some research for my future upgrade I came up with the following info with regards to the exact 180B struts to use. I've had many ppl ask me which 180B struts are actually the leater ones; so here it goes:

Small Stub Axle: 9/72 to 8/74

Big Stub Axle: 9/74 - 8/78

The later ones are basically the oens you're after! I will add this to the firast page for future reference.

Alex

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"You stay classy OzDat"

Yep they are the right ones for the conversion. You can tell by the solid hub instead of the scalloped hub (scalloped hub has the small stub axle, on the early models). Also, they aren't 240K twin piston calipers - they are standard 180B calipers.

Regarding redrilling rotors with holes already in them, I have done it for years on road and race cars, with no trouble. Not sure how an engineer would see it but unless you told him, I would be surprised if he even picked it up (hard to see when the car is together).

Good luck.