I have searched for a successful adoption of a stock L18e EFI system, but I only found modified ones or find someone saying they know someone who has done it. Why? Is it this difficult?
Well, let me get to the point. I have Bosch L-jetronic EFI system from an L18e:

The manifold


The fuel rails & Injector


The ECU


The harness


The AFM


The cylinder head(already in the car).


The resistor


The Thermostat housing + thermo switches. Whats that on top of the housing? Vacuum pump to where?


The Combination(dual) relay got lost Another one needed!



Whats is this cannister for?


Where do this Cacuum connect to?


What hoses connect to the pipes under the throttle body?


After acquiring this system in 2005, I had no idea what system it was but since I removed it from an L18, I thought it would work on my L16. Tried fitting it but ran into problems. I was using mechanics(not very professional) who have never done this before. The fuel pump was an in-tank from Hyundai, breaker points ignition. At first, the engine would start & idle for a moment then dies. The fuel regulator was suspected and opened up & got messed(why open a regulator!) After this the car would only start while the return pipe was held/blocked. At one time the combination relay smoked! The car never moved an inch with EFI But was a good trial with no knowledge of the system
So I sadly returned to carburetor but retained the EFI cylinder head.
I have gathered enough information of Bosch L-jetronic EFI system and am fitting it to the car, and this time no turning back until it works smoothly

I'll need the following
#Fuel pump. External preferably from BMW
#Surge tank. Will have to fabricate one
#Fuel regulator
#Combination (dual) relay or two relays that will operate like the dual, ANY IDEAS?
#My car has 3 fuel lines running from the tank to the engine bay. 1>main, 2>return, 3> goes to the carbon canister. Do I need to get bigger fuel lines or I can still use the current ones?
#L18e Service manual

Advice, cautions, comments all are welcome.

When this is done, I'll do a full body restore, from bare metal.

The car, 1978 Datsun PA10 (not current photo though)

The standard equipment is very old. If you want performance keep the manifold and throw the rest in the bin. Update the ECU, injectors, throttle body and off you go.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

OK, I guess you are on a mission to get this OEM stuff to work, understood.
But, there are a lot of old tech bits in that formula which can be done away with, to your benefit.
You could use the manifold, head, injectors and some wiring but seriously consider an aftermarket programmable computer.
There is so much claptrap associated with the early EFI systems and it can be very difficult to get it all working as the Manufacturer intended.
A programmable ECU will run cleaner and simpler than the old school EFI design.
Air temp. coolant temp. MAP sensor plus an EFI fuel pump and you virtually done!
Up to you of course but make the most of modern technology, everybody else does!

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Yeah, apparently these old L series EFI systems run very, very rich and chew through fuel.

Still, it would be great to see one of these things up and running. I've never seen a factory EFI four cylinder datsun running before.

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Ive got 3 of these set up ups and although i haven't had one running in the car i easily got my engine running on the ground in the garage.
If you have any issues just PM me and i'll give you my email. I'll be fitting the L18E engine setup into my car as soon as its painted.

I'll answer a couple of your questions. The thing above the temp sensor housing. Who knows i don't have it on any of my set ups and i got one from a complete running car. Don't use it you don't need it.

Canister also unknown prob don't need it as it is prob just an emissions thing.
Basically if it plugs into your loom use it if no don't stress it will attach to the car loom which you don't need.

Hose on the bottom of the throttle body is factory like that don't stress bout it. Prob just something Nissan got half way though making then changed there minds like the speedo drives on the early S15 6 speed gearboxes.

The relays for the fuel pump are pretty simple. Basically (an this should go for anyone setting up a simple EFI in there car for safety reasons) Take one signal from you starter motor (smaller wire) this will give your engine fuel while cranking. On the second relay take you signal feed from your oil pressure switch this will keep your pump running so long as you have oil pressure.
If you turn your car off but leave your ignition on then your fuel pump won't be cranking along.
(thats the way its set up from factory)

I have all the wiring diagrams for the L18E if needed.
but they are a very very simple EFI system to set up. Your mechanics must have been hillbillys to stuff it up im a builder by trade and it only took me 45mins to get it running on the ground mint as.

I am using the factory pump but any external pump should work. And a regulator that matches the fuel pressure needed. I'll try hunt that out for you. Just get an adjustable reg and then you can move it round to suit,

As i said PM me if you need to know anything else and i'll email you.

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Past:
A10 160J Coupe
R30 Turbo Manual
Present:
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My Standard Car)
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My SR20DET 6Spd Car)
KP710 140J Delux (New Road Car)
KP710 Parts POS

Thank you all for your comments.
MYDATO, performance is not that big issue though I do not want to miss the L series power and the never failing engine. I am not into racing or any sport activies. I just want this car to run smoothly on EFI with same or better performance

Nissanman, I wish to have the OEM system working, but if its as James May saying then I will definitely look into upgrading

Unlimitedpower, good to hear you have such a system running. I didn't understand the dual relay solution.

As I said the standard stuff is very old. Reliability could be an issue as well as drinking plenty of fuel. The other thing to consider is if you want to do any mod, cam, ports exhaust etc you will have a bunch of dramas getting the tune right on. As mentioned before most that go down this route use at least a aftermarket ECU. I did : )

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

The reason the info isn't out there on how to get this setup running in it's standard form is because it's unlikely to give extra performance, smoothness or reliability over a well tuned pair of sus or webbers.

I'm using the same manifold with bigger injectors, a bigger throttle body, a turbo and aftermarket comp. I can't see that this conversion is worth it without upgrading the comp, injectors and tb, unless it's for posterities sake.

The L18E was rated at a higher HP than the stock L18sss (i can't remember by how much)
The reason im going for this option is to get a smoother driving car than the Sus can offer (i have rebuilt ones on my other car)
Nicer starting and better economy.

If im not happy with it i have a CA18DE engine loom manifold ecu etc i can adapt to run on the L18E setup by converting to a CAS etc (hardest part of the conversion that i can tell) This will then allow for a chip able ECU

_________________
Past:
A10 160J Coupe
R30 Turbo Manual
Present:
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My Standard Car)
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My SR20DET 6Spd Car)
KP710 140J Delux (New Road Car)
KP710 Parts POS

May have been a bit rash of me to say there will be no improvement. i should have said i doubt any improvement would be worth the amount of work required to get it running, given that all this equipment is 30 years old. I for one am not convinced that 30 y old injectors will increase engine smoothness.

Nor a 30+ year old box that is not even a computer rather a mess of old out of spec components.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Hello,

I've a Datsun Silvia S110 with the L18E-engine! I'm looking for the ECU wiring diagram? If you have one, can you send it to kevin@tati-motorsport.nl ?

Thanks a lot!

If this topic is still 'active' I can post some pictures of the manifold!?

Kind regards,
Kevin

Silvia_S110, this topic is still active. Please post all the photos.

Do a search on MegaSquirt IMO that is the way to go with these setups...

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"You stay classy OzDat"

didn't only some heads have the intake port shape changed to accomodate an injector?

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1969 Datsun 510 2 Door Sedam - FJ20ET, GT2876R, Haltech, R200 (Street Car All Rounder)
1981 Datsun 910 Bluebird GX Sedan - VQ30DET, GT35R, Jatco (Project Drag - Street 10sec Car)
2011 VW Amarok Highline TD400i