Start the ringing around process. There's a few options. One comes out a winner.
Stewart Wilkins Motorsport.
Fire a few emails through to Stewart who apologises that he is absolutely flat out and will get back to me soon. He has a CV joint option that's up to the task and has some of the parts in stock. Using a 6 bolt flange from a skyline, custom made shaft and 29 spline input shafts into the R200, it will bolt straight in and fit the spline count of my Quaife. Plus he can custom make the size to suit my wider track! All bolts supplied, plus nuts, flanges and painted.
I let him know my track increase, the diff ratio and spline count of my diff.
The decision is easy.
Just under 2 weeks later he's got all the parts ready, the shafts back from heat treatment and fully assembled ready to ship down. 1 day later I have a package...
Some of you may think "Why didn't you just make some up yourself?"
The answer comes easily... I would have to find parts, learn what fits, tweak, fix, measure, draw up custom shaft, get made, heat treat and perhaps more R&D and not enough driving. I crunched some numbers and the price SWM is charging would probably be about the same if I did it all myself, and took a month or two doing it.
They arrive, I couldn't wait to unbox them... Packaged well they look the part.
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Time to start putting them in.
I was panicking about removing the 27mm nut to fit the 6 bolt flange. I used a 1" 1/16 socket instead of a 27mm socket for the axle nut as the imperial is just a little smaller by a fraction.
The trick is to connect something somewhere to allow you to pump through the required torque not only to undo it, but to do it back up again. I chose to take advice from my old man and use a long piece of steel plate/bar with a single hole through it. Place one end through a wheel stud, tighten on with a wheel nut and the other edge rests on a nut tightened onto the other wheel stud.
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The nut is swage/deformed onto the wheel axle so a quick modification to a centre punch (one side flat and the other rounded) will allow this swaging to be removed. A few taps with a knock-ometer and the nut is smooth enough to remove without excessive force or damage to the threads.
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Each nut comes off with a fair bit of force and leaning on the breaker bar, but nothing crazy (I had previously changed the bearings around 30,000 K ago when building the car for the SR20).
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Putting everything back together is fairly painless. One thing I did notice was the flanges supplied are slightly thinner and the nut didn't match up that well with the flats on the axle shaft. A custom designed nut swaging tool was made up on the lathe with an approx 12.5degree ramp on it to try and swage the flats back onto the nut. This didn't work as well due to the thinner flange, so busted out the old Loctite 262 thread lock and coated it all up ready for some tightening action.
Lean on the breaker to achieve the 180-240 lb ft (approx 240-330Nm) required on this nut. I didn't have a torque wrench, but I did have approx 30kg (me) hanging on the end of the 1 metre breaker. Just wish I had a hoist instead of two jack stands...
Done.
Now use some tyre levers to pull out the stub axles inside of the diff from the old CV joints. Out they came (fairly easy when you have the right tools) and in goes the new shafts. A small persuasion with a dead blow hammer to drive them over the R200 internal circlips. Greasing them up slightly also helps.
Bolt up the 6x bolts on each side (also using the Loctite 262). Don't want these to come loose! I also use a paint pen to mark up the nuts/bolt heads, so I can check to see whether they have moved. Easy preventative maintenance and a quick way of telling whether something has moved just by looking underneath. I used the paint pen on the nuts/bolts on the rear end.
All mounted up, it's time to let the Loctite work its magic and give it 24 hours to set.
The rear end is now pretty much complete.
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I feel a drive coming on...
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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
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